Traffic Rules do not exist in Shanghai. I can't say if its just Shanghai or all of China, this being my first trip to China. Green here means step on the gas pedal and pray that anything or anyone crossing your path or in the opposite direction don't kill you first! I grip the side of the taxicab's door in doubt, as we narrowly miss cars, scooters, bikes and people approaching in all directions. Big cities have proofed to be similar in my world travel. They leave contradicting footprints, one that leads to a pinball machine world of noise and visual stimulation, another, to intangible humanity. Cities accelerate and lack collisions of compassion. In Shanghai's underground tunnels, doors open, citizens force their way onto the train before riders have the opportunity to exit. Put your helmet on and when the doors open "Charge"! One of Shanghai's best highlight can be experienced at rush hour.
There are the fortunate who have found fortune in this city. Then there are the poor who live in tiny one room homes within an overcrowded community. A bulk of my time was spent in these neighborhoods to understand and learn more of my Shanghainese culture. Many of the old buildings, some dating as far back as 100 years and more, hid details that had been overlooked or forgotten. We precariously walked into locals' homes trying to blend in. My camera and the blond girl might have given us away but highly unlikely :).We were often greeted with questions like "What are you doing here?" and "Why are you taking photos of these old ugly buildings?". It is common here you find neighbors sharing kitchens and bathrooms, dark corridors lined with padlocked doors, sometimes a steep wooden staircase, leading to a maze of other living quarters. These spaces are far removed from simple. My eyes never saw an empty wall, shelf or counter space. I remember seeing all sorts of objects hung from hooks, wooden sticks, hangers for storage. If there is a space, it had a purpose. I now fully understand why while growing up, we had all sorts of hanging knickknacks. It wasn't dysfunctional after all!
It snowed in Shanghai on the second day of my visit, making the next few days of photographing outside less desirable. While I was complaining about the cold, I witness a local washing his hair outside his home, with a bucket of cold taped water, mixed in with hot water contained in a stainless steel flask. I am clueless to how they shower. Their access to hot water is over a portable gas stove. Their kitchens are small rooms enough for one person to stand in, separate from their living quarters.
If you are ever in China, you have to get your money's worth on your taste buds. The authentic foods of China are sold off the food carts on the streets. It is a little scary thinking about the hygiene standards, but I can guarantee your wallet and tummy is in for a treat! I can't remember a time aside from school days, I could buy a bowl of noodles for less than a dollar! A lot tastier than what I have ordered in most restaurants. The hole in the wall eateries would scare most civilians. They reminded me of old coffee shops and food stalls growing up in Singapore. I indulge in inexpensive tasty food parked under my nose, praying i won't regret throwing up in both directions :P!
Shanghai has everything America has to offer, including - The Mall! I spent ten minutes in what appeared to be the busiest shopping district of Shanghai. Truthfully I could not tell. The chinese have a reputation for being hard workers. I have seen locals standing in freezing temperatures just to make a few bucks. They have, over time, developed tolerance to their harsh environments for self-survival. China is also resourceful at reinventing the wheel. If you want to buy clothing, jewelry and a lot of fake counterfeit brand bags and watches, there is metro stop mall just for that!
As old buildings are torn down to make room for new high-rises and malls, we observe Shanghai taking form. There isn't much of old Shanghai left standing. If you look deep enough, you will find charming locals and a lot of history in these corridors. These images traced my path over 5 days through city streets and narrow alleys, I mingled with the locals and attempted to communicate with my superb mandarin skills. I hope you enjoy following my footprints, to discover the "Real Shanghai".
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Thanks to my cousin Anni, who was mostly my voice on this trip.
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